On December 31 at 9 o’ clock sharp In Shanghai my evening seems to be quite well organized!

From my Ritz Carlton Pudong suite,   I am on my way to the Internationally acclaimed by  the Miele Guide , 7th top restaurants in Asia .

This avant-garde French cuisine eatery, Mr and Mrs Bund ,  at the 6th floor of Bund18, by renowned  Chef Paul Pairet is the place where I chose  to see the year go by before heading to  the glamorous  Bar Rouge  rooftop in the same building , all belonging  with Tan Wai Lou  restaurant  to the  prestigious   VOL group.

The  doors swing open to reveal  a lyed back and spacious restaurant  since April 8th, 2009 clustered with gourmands and oenophiles, bon vivants and a fancy night crowd ready to  party on the adolescent’s 80′ French theme  La Boum!

General Manager, Fabien Verdier and long time  partner of chef  Pairet wearing a tailored  blue  indigo velvet blazer , a pair of worn-out jeans and  a dark gelled  ponytail  welcomes us warmly offering the most beautiful table for two overlooking  the Huangpu River, facing the Pudong, skyline.

Exited I can see my hotel building from here and the lights and sound of the Bund  night scene  and boats over the river looking just like magic on a dream . Would never imagine that the best is yet to come. Despite the busy evening,  Fabien chats with us.

He explains that Mr & Mrs Bund, trains it’s focus on something more difficult than either conceptual fine dining or landmark  nightspots: simplicity. Fabien is totally right, although I over dressed for the occasion, I notice that  the restaurant is more relaxed than its heritage location may suggest, and despite the prime Bund address, it errs on the side of understated chic, not show-off ostentatious.

I read somewhere that the Chinese government for the first 10 years only allowed the French chef to open establishments in mainland and  bingo, Paul Pairet  turned his exacting talent to popular food – French at its very core, international around the edges –served family-style, in a manner recast for the modern table.

An enthused waiter hands us the menu while Fabien offering us wonderful drinks excuses himself promising to come back  very soon.

The menu is anchored on a concept the chef calls – somewhat cryptically – “declension”. There’s no direct translation, though perhaps ‘thematic variation’ comes close. Think of it as culinary riffing preparation: there’s turbot essential, turbot grenobloise, turbot bearnaise, or turbot truffle new meuniere. This is only if we talk turbots!

The waiter adds ” Per chance you’d fancy some frites to mop up the extra truffles, some mashed potatoes over which to douse the extra grenobloise sauce, or some green beans swimming in meuniere sauce.” Everything’s fair game.

Am I confused with the dish ” ?  I don’t eat meat , shellfish nor pork , I am what’s called Kosher -  Will this be a problem?” I ask the waiter a bit troubled

” Not quite! – Fabien Verdier comes back almost happy  to have  personally  grabbed  the challenge! – ” Mr and Mrs Bund is about consensual cuisine , and, as such, its menu indulges guests’ flights of fancies and caters to their whims. Because when a specific craving hits, substitutes and ‘close-enoughs’ are just not good enough” he says refilling  our flutes with champagne.

Chef Paul Pairet , that you will meet personally next week at the site of his latest creation, Ultraviolet, always says  “Mr & Mrs Bund is a restaurant where the diner, leads, through what they know, through their own choices, each diner will, out of all the menu ‘proposals ’ that we have, find something that suits him or her exactly.

” Now let’s not worry about anything else as you must enjoy the evening. Let’s get you something to eat,  I will personally create a menu hat will suit you perfectly and I give you my word you will find it a true delight. We got a few surprises in the oven for you so give us a few minutes.” The surprises arrive one after the other and honestly all blew not only my palate, but my mind too.

Starting from a canned tuna mousse with ginger , lemongrass and soy dressing  as an appetizer  that I have ordered twice with the most delicious home made thin bread crackers , the menu is a s follows:  Ah I forgot to mention, everything must be shared, due to the  French traditional family eatery  philosophy and perfectly aligned with the Chinese.

To start we are served an in-house  smoked salmon seasoned on the table,  with  Giant Asparagus from the  Yunnan province on a Bernaise sauce ( traditional French warm Tarragon-butter dressing)  arugula salad mushroom truffle with Paris mushrooms and soy sauce and slices of Parmigiano cheese, spinach garlic Asiate with garlic butter .sesame oil ad soy, a truffle burnt soup  toasted bread, absolutely delicious, a Black Cod fish ” Hong Kong ” simmered in a heat proof bag with a Cantonese Sauce, and a steamed  Sea Bass  Truffle vierge  wit Truffle oil, Black Olives, tomatoes and Basil vierge Infusion.

The atmosphere is warming up, the music a little louder,  Fabien is inviting his guests to come to the dance floor set in the center of the room nearby the large terrace everyone will head to once the firework will take place, that is if they will take place. In China the government will never let you know in advance.

The only thing I care for at this point is the dessert. One  bitter smooth Chocolate Truffle Tartelette topped with a Toffee Sorbet  and to my surprise the best lemon tart I have ever tasted in life with I absolutely must share, consists of a confit lemon, filled with Lemon Sorbet , Lemon Curd , Vanilla Chantilly ( do you believe it?) served with a stick of Sable! You must taste to believe it.

The fireworks did not take place at the majestic and historical buildings on West  nor on the East bank of the Huangpu River,where  crowd sof  thousands had been waiting patiently since  late afternoon.  The party at the terrace of Mr and Mrs Bund just below Bar Rouge,  went on until 4 AM with a constant flow of new comers from China, Europe and Asia Pacific.

 Ultraviolet

A week later , we have just parked Paul Pairet Jeep in the atrium of an estimated 3.000.000 us dollars investment for an exciting, ground- breaking dining concept, a project that has been conceived in the daring mind of this French chef for over ten years and  has finally taken root in Shanghai  , the  multi-sensory enchantment venue, called  Ultraviolet.

We enter  a dark room with one single rectangular table where Pairet ‘s team has been working on this world-exclusive, 10-seat “theater” restaurant, where all lights, sounds, smell and atmosphere are tailored and choreographed to enhance and interact with each course, and to launch it sometime in 2012.

” It’s a 35 course average “- I hear from my back I assume Paul Pairet, dressed with a military shirt, pants hat and an unshaved bear talking nervously  and looking down at the floor  first and at  waves projected by the  light and sound in the walls.

A large tree trunk found by Pairet himself is suddenly unveiled  in a small room in front of the main dining room where we are sitting wit Fabien and  a few sound and light technicians , and when the light comes brighter at last, like an experienced actor Paul introduces himself with a quick smile but complaining that I have interrupted his thoughts with the avalanche of questions I have asked in relation to the Ultraviloet.

I gaze at him silent now, I learn that guests will have the opportunity to dine in the kitchen, in an atrium or at the very same table we are sitting now.

The sound will have the Beetles and Rolling Stones  incorporated with a reinvented Fish and Chips , other combinations will follow through as a factor of constant surprise.

Would I want to bring that to Brazil?  Maybe.

I wander what Avant -Garde  Brazilian Architect  Oscar Niemayer would say if I asked his opinion.

” My dear let the Frenchman come  in, as he is one of ours! ”

Joelle’s Tips:

The Restaurant: Mr and Mrs Bund, Paul Pairet  a modern French  eatery in cosmopolitan Shanghai Address: 6/F, Bund 18, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, Shanghai, People Republic of China

Photos Ultravilolet  courtesy Scott Wright Limelight Studio

The Chef’s Website: Paul Pairet

The other restaurant : Ultraviolet

Lao Tzu

My first trip to China was 29 years ago.

I remember Chinese people  using dark blue and green military uniforms. There were almost no cars and most would move around with black bicycles making a hell of a noise with their bells, that made our nights impossible to sleep.

I also remember at them staring at me with absolutely no manners which I found terribly uncomfortable and somehow scary. Later our guide explained that they had never seen blue eyes and fair hair before coming across with me, that they were as surprised as me guarantying that it was a completely innocent look.

When having a Chinese breakfast in old Peking (now Beijing) I asked the  hotel housekeeper why I would only find military propaganda on TV , no love stories, soap operas , and reinforced  the concept asking a second question ” Where do you keep your libido, your desires  after all?”  The answer had been very clear: Pointing a finger in her forehead, the young woman replied in a dry authoritarian tone “  We keep it  here, side by side with the revolution!”

I was very young at that time, and watching early morning Tai – Chi Chuan practices everywhere we went, left me a strange sense of these people lack of individuality, manners, and powerless cultural imprisonment. Never in the whole world I would even imagine what could have been instead a message of automated spirituality.

As I grew older, on my way back, life knocked at my door with different challenges, harsh adjustments and a bowl plenty of dissatisfaction.

The dreams I though were easy to reach needed more work, the people that I thought would be easy to live with turned to be sometimes unmerciful opponents, the surrounding cultures I assimilated  during the years were far from familiar with the one I grew up with.

For several years, trying to understand the laws of life, and of my own , I cultivated my home garden like Voltaire,  on a hilltop of the hectic city where I lived,  as a sort of temporary retirement every afternoon up to sunset.

Tai-Chi Chuan became my  ultimate raison-d’etre ;  I  slowly started  to get more acquainted about the Inner and subtle movement of mother Yin in conjunction to Yang ;  Suddenly it was all strangely fitting into place, awareness of the present moment made true physical sense to me.

While witnessing birds sang among trees, and  fresh hilltop breeze caressed my face, I found myself   ” Waving Hands Like Clouds ” ,  “Tossing , Shaking and Parting the Horse’s Mane” , ” Spreading Wings like the White Crane” ” Piking the Needle for the Bottom Of The Sea ” ” Flashing  the Arms like a Fan“  ” Stepping Back and Repulsing Monkey” “Hitting the Opponent with Two Fists”,  reconnecting at last with my apparently lost Oneness and  inner Emptiness. The city heavy traffic from  far,  was surprisingly no longer,  a threat to me.

Several years have passed since that fresh glimpse of  ‘ Temporary Eternal enlightenment” .

this weekend in Shanghai , I decide  to download  the movie remake  Karate Kid  Grabbing headlines, the film has been a huge hit since its release last week.

Bullies have their eyes and fists on 12-year-old Dre (Jaden Smith) after he and his mom (Taraji P. Henson) move from Detroit to Beijing. Luckily Dre’s maintenance man (Jackie Chan, who shouldn’t be fighting kids) is also a kung fu master willing to teach Dre discipline and the art of defending himself.

The Karate Kid” maintains the original’s sense of loneliness in a new place and the mental and physical oppression of bullying . Of course, isn’t out to acknowledge—and reinforces Asian stereotypes when Dre says, “It’s China, mom; everybody knows kung fu.”

The movie takes place in China. Some beautiful scenes are shot in normally inaccessible locations as the Great Wall and the Forbidden City but the ones in the stunning mountains landscape of the old Province of Henan, located in the eastern central part of the country caught my breath.

The moment you arrive in a monasteries peak where” real Kun Fu“  was thought by  Mr. Han (Jackie Chan) ‘s father,  you  come to learn about the secret of victory over the world , now physically at your feet.

The form of meditation is called “Chan” or “Zen“.

Meditation also allows one to focus his inner energy into his actions. The Japanese call this Chi, and many Westerners have heard of it. The Chinese, however, call it Kiai. Kiai allows a Kung Fu student to do things their physical body alone cannot do.

Developing control over your Kiai is a matter of intense mental strength and conditioning. While some people may scoff at the idea of Kiai, and it is true that it might be more of a mind over matter application than an actual force, but Chinese Kung Fu masters has demonstrated their control over their Kiai by doing physical feats that would otherwise be impossible.

Shaolin monks would prepare their minds to withstand the most terrible conditions so that when faces with those conditions in the real world, they would be prepared instead of shocked. Knowing that you have the mental toughness and readiness instills a confidence that allows you to go into any situation ready to act without hesitating. Self doubt is the number one way to be defeated before the enemy has even thrown a punch.

Shaolin Kung fu is not just about defending yourself against an attacker or inflicting bodily harm. Shaolin martial arts also stress discipline, respect for yourself and others, patience, and being humble even in victory. The mental training of Shaolin martial arts helps prepare the student for any events that may come.

Being physically prepared for an alteration is good, but if you are not mentally prepared you will not be focused enough to use the tools that your body has. This is why Shaolin meditation is such an important part of the Shaolin martial arts training. Meditation may not be literally practicing your physical tools, but it allows your mind to make better use of those tools.

Keeping cool in a self defense situation is one of the best ways to ensure you will survive. Tough mental preparedness allows the body to be pushed beyond its physical limits.

Out bodies can only do so much, but our minds allow for much greater feats. I am sure you have heard of “mind over matter” and the truth is that it works. When the Shaolin added mental training to their physical training the result was that their martial arts system obviously surpassed all others in application and practical results.

Kung fu Shaolin monks practiced Chinese martial arts not just for self defense , but as a way of life intended to benefit them on a physical, mental and spiritual level. In times of hardship, such as the financial crisis that we are facing now, this knowledge helps us cope with our modern fast paced lives that lead to stress and anxiety.

The legend of the Shaolin temple and its Shaolin martial monks was first born around the year 540 AD, when the Indian monk Bodhidarma traveled to China to see the emperor. Bodhidarma introduced to the Shaolin monks eighteen movements derived from traditional Indian Yoga.

This was designed to increase their physical and mental strength as well as the flow of Chi energy. It was these eighteen movements that would become kung fu (KF) as we know it today, after being perfected and expanded for nearly 1,500 years.When Bodhidarma introduced Kun Fu to the Shaolin monks, it was to build their mental and physical strength to prevent them from falling asleep during meditation.

When we look at the story of Shaolin, we see the benefits that Kun Fu was originally intended to give us.

KF has been constantly perfected and built upon over the centuries, creating the vast array of styles and variations that we know today. One of the most popular styles today is called Hung Kuen, which is a style based upon the original Southern style of Shaolin Kung fu.

Although KF has changed over time and often become more focused on the ‘martial’ side of things, the core messages and philosophy remain the same as what Bodhidarma taught the Shaolin monks nearly 1,500 years ago.

Kung fu incorporates not only Buddhist philosophy, but also the philosophy of Taoism (pronounced ‘Daoism’). The teachings of the founder of Taoism, Lao Tzu and his manuscript the ‘Tao Te Ching’ have been incorporated into the teachings of KF, teaching us how to live in harmony with nature and within ourselves.

Over the centuries, Shaolin monks incorporated many different animal styles into their KF, On his journey from India to China, the Bodhidharma developed a fighting system based on his observations of the way animals fought in the wild. Arriving at the Shaolin Temple, he put the monks to work learning his fighting system. The animal styles became so numerous that the virtues of all animal styles had to be summed up, hence the five animals of Kung fu. These are:

The tiger , representing power and ferocity Shaolin tiger style kung fu is direct, powerful and decisive. Since tigers have no predators, tiger kung fu is all offense. The crane , representing speed and fluidity, relies on elegance, patience and evasion. Crane kung fu allows an opponent to use their energy to defeat themselves. The snake , representing speed and accuracy, strikes are lightning quick, like a snake biting an enemy. The leopard , teaching us to use our heads and to think in our fighting , and the dragon relies on internal strength and power. It utilizes soft, circular motions that coalesce into sudden destructive power, representing the mastery of all styles, thus making them one.

Through mastering the different animal styles one can achieve a balance in our training. A balance between power and speed, between soft and hard, between ferocity and calmness. This balance is carried forth into our daily lives, helping us to create a perfect harmony between ourselves and others in our lives.

Kung fu training is designed to not only help the individual with his self defense, but to build our fitness, focus, discipline and confidence.

Through KF training, eight wisdoms of KF are thought : respect, loyalty, tolerance, perseverance, patience, dignity, humility and honor.

These wisdoms  are of help not only for the training, but also to be successful in everything that we do In our  fast paced lives  that often  cause us  stress and anxiety – goes without saying in times of hardship such as the financial crisis that we are facing now.

I look nostalgic at old photos taken almost 30 years ago in particular one of myself  in a light green scarf and a red sweater visiting a communist China before the Coca Cola regime.  Such a long ago….

I stare inquisitively at those pictures depicting children with colorful coats wandering what else I could learn from their country, such a giant player with a voluntarily an erased past…The answer to my question comes almost instantaneously as my eyes in disbelief are reading an article from last week  Telegraph  that says- quote: ”

” The temple in central Henan province, famous as the birthplace of kung fu, has established an eBay-style store selling Shaolin branded merchandise on China’s TaoBao auction site.
The site is operated by Shaolin Zhiye, the temple’s commercial arm, which is behind an array of ventures exploiting the Shaolin legend, including film productions, touring martial arts shows and even a reality-TV program.

The site does not offer the secrets of immortality but for 10,000 yuan (1,450 dollars), fans can buy a three-volume set of kung-fu and medical secrets. More modest offerings include a wristband and environmentally-friendly chopsticks.
Despite their name, critics say, the temple’s current occupants are not genuine Shaolin monks because the spiritual side of their art has been replaced by crass commercialism.

The venture into the world of e-commerce is the latest involving Shi Yongxin, the abbot of the monastery who has developed a reputation for clever financial dealings.

He has been criticized for accepting a brand new luxury car for his services to the local tourist industry but supporters say he has done much to popularize the town, which has more than 80 martial arts clubs and schools with around 50,000 students.”

Amused I finally reflect on my past fears, the ones that unconsciously haunt my sleep and the Shaolin monks unusual fresh marketing activities…

Mr. Han (Jackie Chan) , the karate Kid’s master would respond about the ghosts in my mind:  ” Face them, fight them, friend them!” . And, no doubts my dear friends…. this is real Kun fu!

Joelle’s Tips:

Sources: The Daily Telegraph /  E-how / Golden Lion Academy of Kun fu / Shaolin Gun Fu Institute / China Travel /

The Movie: The Karate Kid

The Academies in China: Travel  Study Kun fu at the The Shaolin Temple /  Study Tai Chi Chuan Taijiquan (tai chi or taiqi) or Shaolin Gongfu at Buddhist Temple

The Academy in India :  Study Yoga in the Hymalaya

My thanks for the contribution of All Right Reserved  copyrighted pictures courtesy of: Rick Archer ( landscape) ,  2010 Sony Pictures Digital Inc. (Karate Kid ) ,  About.com Can Chu Getty Images , Wikipedia Coomon rights ( Pagoda) /Larique ( Chaolin Kun Fu)    Sanmenxia & Luoyang, (Burn Incense) ,

 ” Water is the symbol of pure consciousness. 

Water is the gentle way. The path of least resistance.

When it reaches a blockage, water find the easiest path around the blockage or it continues to assemble, and flows over the blockage.

Water uses itself to go beyond whatever it needs to go beyond”

Lao Tzu

In Chinese tradition, the place of honor is always at the water’s edge. Inspired by the wisdom of Chinese practices for health and well-being, water’s edge at Park Hyatt Shanghai honors life in harmony with the quite strength and fluid nature of water.

I am in China for the last 5 days but I feel completely broken due to the pitiless 12 hours  jet lag. On the desk  in my suite I see a beautiful brochure  inviting me to visit the spa at the 85th floor . I quickly put my bathing suit and head up in the spacious super speed elevator.

The door opens to a high ceiling white and taupe corridor with very dim light but I can hear from afar the relaxing noise of water running. I  love it!

Crossing the narrow corridor I arrive in a spacious relaxation zone featuring the most stunning 20-meters infinity pool, a Wellness Studio with two treatment rooms and a ultra equipped last generation gym. Behind me a tai-chi courtyard where I learn that I will be able to practice at 6 AM tomorrow and every morning at the same time if I wish to.

While drinking an infused Mineral water  I enquire about the different treatments and  complaint about my irritable condition. I am suggested to experience by a young woman in a suit a Tui Na massage. Literally translated as ‘press and rub ‘ . Apparently  Tui Na uses deep digital stimulation on vital points along the meridian to stimulate Qi and relieve pain and fatigue. This rejuvenating therapy will be used to treat any cold and my headache, relieve insomnia or intestinal upsets , and remedy the  low back pain that has been bothering me the last few days, my stiff neck, and possibly  hormonal imbalances. ‘ Please fix me”  I ask.

Once all set with my appointment , It’s time to enjoy the water. I swim in the perfect temperature pool and the sky at my left hand side is the limit! Like in a house on my left several ornamental terra-cotta vases placed  on Chinese wooden  identical armoires . The symmetry and rhythm of the designed space is perfectly aligned with the movement of my arm stokes in the pool water.

It feels like being in a home spacious entrance hall adorned with art objects and sculptures where I happen to find water and enjoy  a long peaceful swim at it’s edge. Truly maddening!

The hot and cold bubbling jacuzzis are inviting as well. I will deep for a few minutes to detox and stimulate my blood circulation and will head to the locker rooms.

The views are breathtaking. It’s a raining outside and the pollution gives a grey aspect to the small , minute houses complex at my feet. Indoor I am surrounded with Ming Style wooden chairs and ranunculus flowers bouquets in black lacquered vases, fresh linen towels for the face and couple of large towels piled up in rolls next to every individual vanity. Goes without saying that bottles of water are everywhere.

In the steaming room,  I hardly believe what I see. The most beautiful I have ever seen, showcases an  open view of the sky through a thick transparent glass wall. Vapor indoor, dizzying water  outside the best is still yet to come. Yes my friends and that is the shower!

Super large Japanese rain shower. I try to reproduce the sensation through the lens of my camera …in vain.

Ready to my Tui Na I head to the rocking chairs courtyard. My therapist Wendy confides me that it ‘s all in the rocking chair, the flow, the meditation, the Chinese tea she is serving in a tiny ceramic cup without any handle.

Through a long , very long corridor filled with several libraries of art books, I  am taken by two your girls silently to my treatment room overlooking the city at night.

From this moment on I forgot my name. I am floating weightless under the experienced 8 hands of  my female therapists searching every single meridian spot they can find.

I am like water.

Joelle’s Tips

The Spa: Water’s Edge

Park Hyatt Shanghai

Tao Yuanming

(English translation by Wang Rongpei)

Yuyuan Garden is a famous classical garden located in Anren Jie, Shanghai. The garden was finished in 1577 by a government officer of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) named Pan Yunduan. Yu in Chinese means pleasing and satisfying, and this garden was specially built for Pan‘s parents as a place for them to enjoy a tranquil and happy time in their old age.

In the 400 years of its existence, Yuyuan Garden had undergone many changes. During the late Ming Dynasty, it became very dilapidated with the decline of Pan‘s family. In 1760, some rich merchants bought Yuyuan Garden and spent more than 20 years reconstructing the buildings. During the Opium War of the 19th century, Yuyuan Garden was severely damaged. The Yuyuan Garden you see today is the result of a five year restoration project which began in 1956. The garden was open to the public in September, 1961.

Yuyuan Garden occupies an area of 20,000 square meters (about five acres). However, the small size is not a representative of the attractions of the garden. The pavilions, halls, rockeries, ponds and cloisters all have unique characteristics. There are six main scenic areas in the garden: Sansui Hall, Wanhua Chamber, Dianchun Hall, Huijing Hall, Yuhua Hall and the Inner Garden. Each area features several scenic spots within its borders.

Upon entering the garden, you will encounter a rockery, which is called the Great Rockery. With a height of 14 meters (about 50 feet), it is the largest as well as the oldest rockery in the southern region of the Yangtze River. On the top of the rockery, you can get a bird’s eye view of the garden. Cuixiu Hall sits at the foot of the rockery. It is a quiet and elegant place surrounded by old trees and beautiful flowers. Visitors will find curio shops in the Cuixiu Hall.

Sansui Hall was built in 1760 and was originally used to entertain guests. Later it became a place to hold ceremonies for the gentlemen and bookmen. With a height of nine meters (about 30 feet) and featuring five halls, it is the largest and most commodious structure in the garden. The name Sansui is derived from the book History of the later Han Dynasty, and means ‘propitious’ and ‘lucky’.

Wandering in the area of Yule Pavilion and Wanhua Chamber, you will find pavilions, corridors, streams, courtyards as well as many other natural features. Wanhua Chamber is a delicately chased building surrounded by derious cloisters. Spring bamboos grow beside the cloisters. In front of Wanhua Chamber, there are two old trees. One is a maidenhair tree which is 21 meters tall (about 70 feet).It is said that the tree was planted by the host of the garden 400 years ago.

The Dianchun Hall area is located east of Wanhua Chamber, and includes Hexu Hall, Relic Hall, Ancient Well Pavilion, and the Acting-and-Sing Stage. Dianchun Hall was once the headquarters of Xiaodao Hui, a revolted group who fought against the government of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) during 1853-1855. The coins made by Xiaodao Hui and the bulletins they proclaimed are currently displayed in the hall.

The true treasure of Yuyuan Garden is the Exquisite Jade Rock. Located across from Yuhua Hall, it is one of the three famous rocks in the southern region of the Yangtze River. (The other two are Duanyun Feng in Suzhou and Zhouyun Feng in Hangzhou.) The rock is 3.3 meters (about 10.8 feet) in height and has 72 holes. What is interesting about this rock is that if you burn a joss stick just below the rock, the
smoke will magically float out from all of the holes. Similarly, when you pour water into the rock from top, the water will flow out from each hole creating a spectacular sight to see. Pan Yunduan was very fond of the Exquisite Jade Rock, and he built Yuhua Hall facing the rock so it was convenient to sit in the hall and admire it. The furnishings in the hall were made of top grade rosewood of the Ming Dynasty, appearing both natural and graceful.

The Inner Garden was a separate garden built in 1709, but is now a part of Yuyuan Garden in the south. The Inner Garden is compact and exquisite, and the rocks, pavilions, ornamental ponds and flower walls offer some of the most attractive sceneries in Yuyuan Garden.

A true paradise of serenity in the midst of the most hectic city in China. check this place out!

Joelle’s Tips:

The Park: Yu Yuan Gardens

The Source : China Travel Guide

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With some luck I could bring home the most valuable deal ever and the energy of the lost and found object to be part of large collections of similar items sources in another part of the world.

Portobello  and Camden In London, England,  Chatuchak Market in Bangkok,  Thailand,  Marche aux Puces is Paris,  France  the Flea Market in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico  Mapusa Market in Goa , India, Sant Elmo Buenis Aires Argentina, I have been in all of them from 6 AM to noon every time I could. Each and every fleas market has something to offer that is typical of the region, mostly the neighborhood, against all odds of globalizations flea Markets apart from the usual folk  handicrafts from India , stand firm and unaltered against time.

In Shanghai , the  most modern city in China where food chains are moving up with flash buildings and stunning skylines, the concept is quite the same.  If you turn the corner  you can still find pockets that seem cut from distant centuries.

It’s in a single street named Dongtai Lu , around Dongtai Road, just south of Hua Hai Zhonglu, near Hua Hai Park that  outdoor vendors line several streets on the outskirts of the Old Town

Serious antiques are few  between and replicas and  fakes, but you will find plenty of vintage items, traditional crafts, curios and assorted knick-knacks. Among the stalls with embroidered slippers for bound feet, chopsticks, lanterns and furniture you will also come across Communist-era posters, calligraphy brushes and copies of The Little Red Book in several languages. Experienced antique collectors will be able to pick up some excellent buys.

1960 colorful  memorabilia  of the cultural revolutions depicting Mao zedung and his entourage are among the most interesting objects  I have ever seen in any market elsewhere so far.  Possibly because China has been isolated  from the world for so long.

My camera clicked on Ivory opium pipes, bachelite, jade and amber large calligraphy brushes, colorful hand painted perfume bottles, old imperial style knives, vintage posters and photos, beads of all kinds, emperors ceramic statues, military hats, minute paper red lanterns, crickets wooden boxes, 1800 chess games  and so on until the battery went down.

A true pleasure!

Joelle’s tips

The Street Markert: official name is Liuhe Road Old Handicraft Market.

Open Hours: 10 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. Sat & Sun

How to Bargain

Cut the price in half, then half again. Expect to bargain ruthlessly; haggling can take hours. Antique buyers should be extremely cautious; copies are far more plentiful than authentic items across China.

How to get there
The metro stop closest to the market is South Huangpi Road. Taxis are abundant and inexpensive in Shanghai and while most cab drivers know the market they do not speak English. Ask the reception at your hotel to write down the name of the market in Chinese so you can hand it to the driver. Most hotels have business cards with their address in English and Chinese and a space on the back where the Chinese name of a destination can be filled in.We introduce shanghai subway station map for you.

The source: Foreigner.com

I must admit to everyone, that  I am not very comfortable with heights, tower buildings or high floors . They are definitely not  my Jasmine cup of tea !  I decide to come closer cautiously to the large floor to ceiling glass paneled window and admire  still at calculated distance what seems to be the top of  the 88-story landmark supertall skyscraper Jin Mao Tower  just  few meters below the coffee table in front of me- Weird sensation.

I still cannot do it and apparently now, my luggage has arrived and the same elegant person who checked me in is now giving directions to another quite and as distinguished ‘ servant’ of where I must be taken from this point on. I naturally ask only one question:  ” Which floor are we going to?”

Among only 174 guest rooms and 14 suites I learn that mine is located at the 84th floor. Not bad I think quietly,  looks easy, I will make it, I will make it. The elevator ride is silent,  too silent, and in my mind it takes just a little more to arrive to New York on a jumbo jet from that living room  but here we are, with a smile and several thank yous I am now shown the way  by the new person in charge to sober palette of natural colors corridor. The light accents are subtle and the general atmosphere is one of  grand serenity.

Like every room in the hotel, mine features views over  the Huangpu river and Pudong and apparently I will be spending time in one of the largest suite sof the city measuring 130 sqm . Tallest building and largest suite  are overwhelming for a simple traveler like me who is just looking for some comfort and warm hospitality. The tall doors are opened to a 3,1 meter ceiling height, and the room at first site looks pretty spacious to me.

The monochromatic palette with walls lined in linen, lacquer finish and  slatted wood panels feature a daybed for in-room massage treatment, a large walk -in dressing chamber with front and back mirrors, I like mirrors, DVD player, broadband internet on a small desk that can be perfectly used as an office,Plasma TV and a coffee machine embedded into a vanity mirror, marble freestanding double sinks, all very squared and sharp looking in Greek Thassos , and an oriental charming, charming  bathing area  with an oversized monsoon rain shower, an overflowing soaking tub where as we speak two young girls are preparing my  ” Welcoming  Aromatherapy Relaxing Bath Experience” .

Through the ‘ courtyard style’ corridor I can see a bright green grass carpet with a few little dogs, how refreshing, I learn it is a piece of art balancing the grey taped tones of the far too sober room overlooking a noisy Shanghai. After all who really minds what happens below at this point?  In fact cut from the world above and below I am now even ready  to take a peak at the panoramic landscape , one of the most impressive I have ever seen. Zen minded I am on my way to soak in that bath tub.

Joelle’s Tips

The Hotel:

Park Hyatt Shanghai

A few hours before midnight we have dinner at Travel and Leisure Asia’s top 7 restaurant and no.1 Restaurant in China / Miele guide 2011/2012, Mr. and Mrs. Bund Modern Eatery by Paul Pairet ,(I will write another full article about this marvelous restaurant part of the same group of Shanghai’s dazzling nightlife Icon, Bar Rouge.

A long line is already set in place. A body guard makes a sign with the blinking of an eye in our direction and very discretely we are transported at the top floor of the prestigious 1900 building on the Bund. This city’s hottest venue showcase since it’s entrance a combination of high style and a stunning Bund view. Antoine Pernet, the director of Bar Rouge welcomes us with a smile and invites to walk around before we reach our table VIP privileged area overlooking the colorful Pudong view.

Eric comes along greeting us for the new year saying: “ Bar Rouge is more than a bar, It is an alchemy – a magic formula that blends the crowd, music, and drinks into a fantastic venue where the night comes alive just wait a few minutes and you will see what this place is all about!

Its timeless location on top of the Bund 18, a heritage building on Shanghai’s historic waterfront, adds to the intrigue. Shanghai was the perfect place to start the Bar Rouge adventure,” says Pernet.

The Bar Rouge Team introduced to us one by one is totally international I have tested and checked the seven nationalities, eleven languages and five dialects who ensure that any of their clients request gets a tailor-made reply.

To please every thirst, the drinks list is extensive with creative cocktails, premium spirits, and an amazingly big range of Champagne in every size supported by Paul Pairet team.

In summer 2012, a made-to-order sushi bar will be added to Bar Rouge spacious terrace .Topped all of this with a fine selection of Caviar sets, Cuban cigars, and Dom Perignon by the glass, each guest shall be thrilled. “We are always looking for new ideas to please and surprise our clientele,” shares Pernet.

The lively electro /house  music is extraordinary, the best I have ever heard, I promise you guys! By the way, you can steam it on iTunes I will insert the link below!!

The crowd is wild , we are all enlaced in the spacious terrace  as one, touched by green laser beams and a central digital clock constantly reminding us like in a dream that we must be awake  and live intensely the first minutes, hours and days of  the new 2012 year.

Slowly  we fall  into the spell of the Champagne, red atmosphere and sound  alchemy  with a gorgeous crowd on comfortable seats where superstar deejays such as David Guetta, Bob Sinclar, and Dennis Ferrer have been here driving other crowd in total ecstasy.

The place hosted recently an exclusive an unmatched event for the 100 Year Celebration of Champagne Moet & Chandon in China, hosted by actress Scarlett Johansson, the party attracted celebrities and trendsetters of international renown. Bar Rouge was also the scene for the gala of Virgin Atlantic Airlines, with Sir Richard Branson in attendance as the honored guest.

Antoine and Eric confided me that Bar Rouge is considering coming to Brazil. Any ideas dear friends Sao Paulo or Rio? Check their website it is stunning like it’s team!

Good job Bar Rouge  and Sarava! See you soon in the land where God and Bossa Nova are Brazilian.!

Joelle’s Tips:

The Club: Bar Rouge

7F, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Road, Shanghai.
Tel: 86.21.6339.1199

Recipe for “Grape Temptation”

Ingredient:

1 whole apple (sliced),
1 whole Kiwi sliced,
Home made cinnamon syrup,
Vodka,
White wine,
Lemon juice,

Extra:

Shake & double strain…

Garnish with an apple fan, grape pick or cinnamon stick.

Surprised with such a request , God searched for the majestic 101 story construction and found it raising over  a noisy and crowded  Lujianzui financial district of Pudong  overlooking a beautiful but polluted  view of the Huangpu  River separating the intriguing city of 18 million into two distinct frenzy  and dusty centers.

After a few days of reflections God replies to mogul Mori with the following sentence: ” Go and find a New York based American- Chinese Interior designer  named Tony Chi. He will cast your dream  from the 79 to the 93 floor into a 174 room island where you’ll be able to create more than any of  your visitors will ever need… But remember!  You must follow some rules. If you agree to abide , you’ll be successful and all your  requests will come true. Go now find that man and come back to me , i will show you the way”

Mori was very pleased with the conversation with God but  slightly concerned about the hotel rules, after all the investment was quite substantial as the record -shattering blue colored glass tower also known as ‘ The Vertical Complex City”  will be a corporate power on it’s own .

But with award-winning design expert Tony Chi at his side , Mori got more comfortable in the next conversation with the sky.

‘ Rule number 1-  God’s starts – One should never forget  it’s origins.

The city of Shanghai developed  in a speed I don’ necessarily approve of overwhelming the natural surrounding of ancient cabbage fields ;  your job is to re-create an eco-friendly and sophisticated modern Chinese residence that you will design with respect to traditional Chinese geometry and architecture, while providing all the comforts of a stately home  and an spiritual sanctuary of silence where  inner recollection and meditation are the core essence of human existence.”

Tai Chi  will  be practiced daily for  Yn and Yang  balance,  and a courtyard will be a must to play chess and congregate. The element of water and beauty will surround everyone and delicious healthy food will  be a blessing if consumed within in a serene and simple atmosphere overlooking the  hectic city life. ”
Five years later due to the Japan economical slow-down, the hotel is ready to receive its’s guests. Among those. Me.

It’s very early in the morning and quite cold. As we approach along a bamboo lined driveway,  our car stops in front of a dramatic 16-meters high enhance gateblue tower but I certainly cannot see the top from where I am. A few young men and women dressed in grey think coats with a furred details  greet me and lead me to a series of gates, halls and chambers and galleries displaying contemporary Chinese Art , leading to an elevator ‘ cabin’ which disk me up to a giddy 87 floor  to the reception chamber. It’s a long distance trip.

Looking directly onto Oriental Pearl TV Tower, Jin Mao Tower, and The Bund still illuminated in the early dark morning,  the reception floors adopts a unique residential-style approach.

I am invited to sit in a tranquil Living Room filled with books and authentic Chines works of art and  offered Westerns and Chinese  comfort food and tea while my check in takes place.

Silence is around me, I am certainly going to get some sleep before breakfast….God, thank you I am in the sky!

Joelle’s Picks:

The Hotel: Park Hyatt Shanghai Hotel

The designers:  Tony Chi

Credit is given to the ancient Egyptians for the practice of exfoliation.  In Asia, it started hundreds of years ago. The etymology of the word exfoliate comes from the Latin exfoliare (to strip off leaves).

Shanghai is an extremely polluted city. Many inhabitants walk in the streets with masks and it is very easy to get sick on arrival  if you don’t  have the right nutrition, good sleep and  daily vitamins intake.

I arrived tired from a 20 hours journey forgot to look for the vitamins at the bottom of my suitcase,  slept an average of only 5 hours a night  for the last 3 weeks and changed drastically my nutrition and routine in the last few days. I am also tremendously jet lagged with 12 hours difference ahead.

As everyone knows, new skin cells are created in the skin’s lower layer, the dermis. Over time, cells migrate to the surface of the skin and become more acidic. During their 30 day journey, they die and become saturated with keratin. Keratin is important because it protects the skin from outside elements.

My last 12 months have been an accumulation of stressful toxins due to intensive activities and overwhelming life events, and through the aging process like everyone else, my  natural process of skin erosion became uneven,  giving my  skin a dry and rough character. I realize I must do something quickly , before the New Year , tonight.

I call the reception to enquire about the spa located at the 55th floor . It is managed by ESPA and features 10 treatment rooms including 9 multi function treatment rooms and a Harmony Suite where two guests can enjoy the treatments at the same time.

I  decide to quickly put a robe on, plunge in the magnificent rooftop pool, overlooking the city  of Shanghai at distance I can feel the year slowly go by.  A long shower and a warm Jasmine tea offered by miss Sandy Wang the Spa and Fitness Manager  are the perfect starters for a life’s unforgettable experience.

Designed by renowned Richard Farnell, the spa combines striking modern lines and Art Deco detailing with extremely high quality finishes both in the spa and relaxation area. A dramatic combination of angles and unique shapes are consistent with the style and design of all other areas in the hotel.

I am now taken by a quite young Chinese woman to the waiting room.  Here, floor to ceiling windows as well  offer the same unparalleled views of the pool this time with the ‘ pearl” right in from of me .  The spacious treatment rooms and showers, are alternating hues of Amber, Aqua and Emerald mosaics probably Bisanza, matching perfectly the wooden floors.

I take time to enjoy the crystal steam room, rock sauna, and ice fountain prior to my treatment to unwind and soothe aching muscles or wash away the city in the refreshing experience shower. For the ultimate indulgence experience the Harmony Suite, complete with personal steam, spa bath and breathtaking views across the Huangpu River.

After an unformal l chat sipping my warm tea , exploring  different aromas of the ESPA essential oils,  Sandy suggests that I experiment a combination of  a 90 minutes ancient- and -modern Chinese treatment called Jade QiYun paired with an ESPA detoxifying  Body Oil whose ingredients, 100% natural. I am asked how I would like the pressure of the massage and if I am allergic to any product and let to my treatment room overlooking the legendary Bund as the night falls upon us.

Obedient, I am now lying on the most comfortable and warm massage bed.  The total body experience will apparently restore  ”Qi” and  ”Yun”, rebalancing both my mind and body.  Myy area of stress, neck and shoulder tension are being targeted with no pity releasing the effects those have on my skin. While experienced hand travels around my body with a mild pressure , I can’t help seeing ‘ the movie’ of the past year, the ups and downs, the hard and soft moments, the joys and challenging times.

A stimulation deep- cleansing back exfoliation follows , the aromas of the Juniper berry,  Grapefruit, Lemon, Eucalyptus and Cypress are acting as powerful agents removing the outer layer of my dead skin to reveal the newer skin beneath, and like a Kafkian’s  Metmorphosys the shedding of the outer layer unclogs my pores, keeping my skin clean, and helping reducing breakouts.

Like the old year, slowly my old skin is blending with the salts of the prepared scrub to finally be dissolved in water leaving my pores open, releasing unwanted water and receptive for new  nourishment and fresh moisture. The wrinkles are left to the past.

Fresh and clean, I fall asleep during the treatment, a profound dream showcases hope and premises for the new year to come. Pure like a child I am now ready to face the elevator who will take me back to the world’s best suite life can offer tonight.

2012 is young and my skin too.

Joelle’s Tips:

The Spa: Ritz Carlton Shanghai Pudong

The Products: ESPA

The Designer: Richard Farnell

The City God Temple or Chenghuang Miao (Chinese: pinyin: Chénghuángmiào) is a temple located in Shanghai, China, within the old walled city. Today the “City God Temple” not only refers to the large temple complex, but also the traditional district of commerce in the city, surrounding the temple. There are over a hundred stores and shops in this area, and most of these store buildings are nearly a century old. The temple connects to the Yuyuan Garden, another landmark of the old city.

Regardless of size, many walled cities in ancient China contained a temple dedicated to one or more immortal or god as the spirit(s) or protector(s) of the city.

The City God Temple in Shanghai originated as the Jinshan God Temple, dedicated to the spirit of Jinshan, or “Gold Mountain”, an island off the coast of Shanghai. It was converted into a City God Temple in 1403, during the Yongle era of the Ming dynasty.

During the Qing Dynasty, the temple grew popular. Residents of the old city as well as nearby areas visited the temple to pray for good fortune and peace. The temple reached its largest extent in the Daoguang era. The popularity of the temple also led to many businesses being set up in the area, turning the surrounding streets into a busy marketplace.

When this temple was first built in 1403 under Ming Emperor Yongle (1403-25), it was dedicated to the legendary Han general Huo Guang as well as the guardian city god, Qin Yubo. Qin Yubo was a righteous scholar who refused to get involved in court politics (then rife with corruption) despite much pleading from the emperor. Deified upon his death in 1377, Qin Yubo now watches over and protects the city of Shanghai.

The temple had become more of a marketplace by the time of the Cultural Revolution (1966-76), when it was mostly destroyed. Both the temple and surrounding market were thoroughly restored in the early 1990s.

The present version of the Chenghuang miao has been much restored since its 15th-century origins, but still retains its historic and authentic feel. There is still a statue of General Huo Guang in the front hall and Qin Yubo in the back hall, with many other deities represented as well.

Many Shanghai residents frequent the temple to offer incense before their favorite local god, hoping for good fortune in return. The temple is staffed by what the Blue Guide China calls “bad-tempered monks who]are clearly more interested in collecting money from local people willing to pay to have the gods solve their problems than entertain foreign visitors.”

The Temple of the Town God is surrounded by the reconstructed shops and restaurants of the “traditional” market, as well as the beautiful Yu Yuan (Garden of Content), created in the 16th century.

Check the images of worshippers and general feel.

Joelle’s Tips:

The Temple: The Temple of the Town God

Hours: 08:30-16:00
Address: No. 247, Middle Fangbang Rd.,Huangpu District
Transportation: Buses: No.11, 42, 64, 66, 126, 926
Admission: CNY 5

The Source: Sacred Sites, places of power