At her show for Milan Fashion Week last night, Miuccia Prada unveiled a series of six-inch flat platforms crafted from contrasting Perspex and leather. The shoes, which appeared to have been inspired by Japanese geta sandals, had been cut away to leave a hollow oval shape in the sole. Some fastened with thick black ribbons,others came detailed with rows of silver daisies.
Worn with ankle-length leather socks in shades of metallic, red and pale pink, the shoes formed part of a collection that Prada said she had designed to express the "poetic part of a woman".
Talking backstage after the show, she said the collection "was about expressing a feeling, about contrasting toughness with sweetness". It was "delicate but also rigorous".
Her description - a somewhat cryptic and inconclusive explanation of a collection in which cartoon daisies featured on voluminous cotton tops, and folded tabard tops in duchess satin came teamed with slim-fitting knee-length city shorts - nevertheless clarified the series of contrasts at work in her latest offering.
Stark black tops in voluminous yet clean shapes were juxtaposed with light, delicate draped tops in frosted shades of pink and blue.
A floral appliqué flower motif that may have appeared light and playful in another designer's hands was made tough and grown-up in Prada's charge.
While she refused to confirm or deny that there were any references to Japanese culture in this collection, a series of short, pleated kilts and preppy sweater dresses evoked images of Harajuku girls.
Unusually for a spring/summer collection, fur also played a key role.
While the biannual shows of Milan's designers are considered to be more predictable than those that take place in London or Paris, Prada is invariably the exception. Her skill is to take what is grotesque, terrifying, even, and transform it into a item of clothing every woman in the world wants in her wardrobe. While the shoes unveiled on the catwalk last night may at the moment look like an unlikely addition to your wardrobe, you can be sure they will soon become the hottest piece of footwear on the planet. ( London Evening Standard)
At the Impossible conversation Exhibition with Elsa Schiapparelli Miuccia had mentioned the strong influence of travel in her creations. I am glad Japan is in her mind, although she never officially admitted it, as nobody could personify better the Geisha flair than her. Well done!
Images : Gorunway