Our stay at Cala Caterina is nice, tranquil and in that spot the sea is absolutely crystal clear. Our bedroom suite faces a large green loan where you can see the horizon nestled around a pineta of centenary tress. The food unfortunately was nothing to write on this magazine about except for Gabriella the maitre d and the service of the staff who showed enormous amount of good will. But at some point if you can’t differentiate the taste between an orata and a branzino it’s time to look to satisfy your appetite after long days of sea and sun somewhere else.
We are told about this place called Su Furreddu. There are two of them. They belong to a family from Piemonte who moved a few years ago to Villasiumius ( who could blame them) to open their very successful establishments amongst the locals. And of course I learned this years ago if you eat like and where the locals go you have nothing to worry about the quality of the menu. We first chose to the one in viale dei Cipressi, a geranium filled terrace under olive and cypress .
I ask my husband to park the car right in front the small cancello made of rocks , it’s five o clock almost sunset and we are told to book well in advance if we wish to have a table during the high season. As I make my way in I am almost bumped into red shirt waiters hands filled with succulent lobster’s pastas, french fries, and all sorts of other dishes I cannot see on time. I ask for the person that will help me with my tomorrow booking. ” Un’attimo prego signora ….”(Just a moment please madam) a barman shouts a little loud from the end of the small entrance with a continuously ringing cashier and a large refrigerated glass window that featured local desserts fragole di bosco, ( mixed berries from the woods) profiteroles, tiramisu, baba al rum, seeds, 9 traditional sardinian fritters, wanna cotta and you name it. We are finally able it to book a reservation for tomorrow 9 PM, tavolo 55 under an olive tree. We are journalists and we will be introduced to the owner ‘wife who is in charge of this location.
8.45 we are back and famished. I am trying as much as I can to remember all I wanted to eat yesterday while I was waiting to book our table but I am distracted by the long line of tanned, very tanned women , men, children and grandparents waiting on the street sidewalk to hopefully have a family dinner.
Antonella, blonde a little chubby greets us with a lovely smile and a block note in her hand. ” Benvenuti! Giornalisti? ” We nod discretely mouthwatering as more dishes pass by . I read the menu and let her know that would like to start with the antipasti. Antonella says no, she refuses to accept my order. She will tell me what my husband and I will eat tonight. Apart from no shell fish and crustaceous, plates will come one after the other and I will let her know my opinion after. I look at my husband and sincere have no choice we accept her deal. A marvelous fresh Tuna fish carpaccio makes a first entry on a large plate with two yellow lemon quarters black pepper and two forks . Speechless, it feels like butter to us, a waitress smiles and asks the permission to bring a lightly pan fried marinated salmon with dill, and delicious Alici freshe marinate, Italian white anchovies marinated in sunflower oil and cured in vianger. “sottaceto” .
We feast in silence . Around us in the room, red and white checkers tablecloths tables are by now in less than half an hour all taken. An oven baked pizza flavored with fresh porcini mushrooms is displayed in the center of our table, next to the two almost frozen Peroni beers. We work on that in less than 10 minutes because my husband’s pecorino ravioli al pistacchio are waiting to be replaced by his empty plate. I explode in laughter wandering how he is going to deal with that work of art. Antonella is back and inquires with the usual smile how we are doing so far. In her hand my favorite local speciality in the world , spaghetti all bottarga. Yes . Like cilantro or sea urchin, bottarga is a taste you either love or hate. The al dente pasta dressed with fruity olive oil and dusted with amber-gold grated bottarga and fresh parsely tastes like summer on my plate . The cured mullet roe’s is one of its kind and the fish can be found in Sardinian waters. Bottarga is the creation of Phoenicians (Ancient Greek civilization), who used the Mullet eggs as an ingredient. The Arabs were the ones responsible for spreading the Bottarga cuisine all around the Mediterranean. They regarded it as ‘Battarikh’, the caviar of the Mediterranean. Such widespread made the bottarga an expensive commodity even used as gift. (My good friend Mary Nigri’s mum , Norma Nigri of the restaurant Il Quattrino, prepares a very good one in Sao Paulo , the turkish way, it’s a little darker and whenever she can sends the preparation to New York .) We are practically full for the next three days but how can we miss dessert? In this place it’s a sin! New to us the Su Furred version of a tiramisu with several layers of chocolate fudge topped with roasted hazelnuts, the so called Mascarpino.
3.500 calories later and a total of 49 euros we embrace Antonella dearly grateful for such a divine experience and yes, we promise to visit Roberto her husband ‘s restaurant with the same name at the Marina. We will get the best table overlooking the boats and the surrounding mountains. We book for the day after, and the day after that .
Su Forreddu restaurant
Address : via degli oleandri 8/a porto turistico
Villasimìus 09049 Phone: +39 070 797045
Address: 2 Viale Dei Cipressi, Villasimius, CA 09049, Italy
Phone: +39 070 790001
Il Quattrino restaurante
Rua Oscar Freire, 506 Jardim Europa , Sao Paulo , Brazil
Phone:+55 (11) 30680319